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Featured Topic DIY Workshop » γ1: Full-featured modular miniature DAC   
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fordgtlover

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Joined: Feb. 22, 2007
Locale: Canberra, ACT, Australia
Total Posts: 44

Edit Message Message [#640] posted on: 03-10-2009 05:35 AM CST (US).    View Profile for fordgtlover   Send PM  to fordgtlover   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Well, I've been using the Panasonic FCs output caps for a few days now. I like them. They seem a bit more dynamic than the silmics. I have been trying to A/B my builds as best I can. Either way, I'd be happy to leave the FCs in place.

My dual LED arrived today. It works well. I'd actually been playing around with a red and a green led and some plexiglass. It was working pretty well, but the dual LED is a nice simple answer.

Mister X



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Joined: Jul. 23, 2003
Locale: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Total Posts: 606

Edit Message Message [#641] posted on: 03-10-2009 07:27 AM CST (US).    View Profile for Mister X   Send PM  to Mister X   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quote]

Well, I've been using the Panasonic FCs output caps for a few days now. I like them.


Are you using the Wima MKS2 "bypass caps"?
Or something else?

fordgtlover

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Joined: Feb. 22, 2007
Locale: Canberra, ACT, Australia
Total Posts: 44

Edit Message Message [#642] posted on: 03-10-2009 09:36 AM CST (US).    View Profile for fordgtlover   Send PM  to fordgtlover   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting Mister X]


[Quote]

Well, I've been using the Panasonic FCs output caps for a few days now. I like them.


Are you using the Wima MKS2 "bypass caps"?
Or something else?


Yes. I left them in. I was going to swap them out for the MKT1817 out of my bantam DAC, but haven't done it yet. I might even give it a run tomorrow without the bypass caps and see how it goes.

I might be cloth eared and everyone else might hate the FCs <big grin>

[Edited by fordgtlover on 03-10-2009 at 09:38 AM.]

fordgtlover

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Joined: Feb. 22, 2007
Locale: Canberra, ACT, Australia
Total Posts: 44

Edit Message Message [#643] posted on: 03-11-2009 05:52 AM CST (US).    View Profile for fordgtlover   Send PM  to fordgtlover   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
I took the Wimas out tonight while still using the Pansonic FC output caps. The Y1 was more grainy. Not unbearably so, but it was noticeable. I then put a couple of little 0.1uf polypropylene caps in place of the WIMAs. This fixed the grain issue.

I have read that many people are not fans of cap 'bypassing', but certainly in this case it worked for me and tidies the panasonics up nicely.

After a week of the panasonics, I must admit that I do prefer the silmics. They are smoother. The panasonics seem to add more punch to the mid-range, which makes them nice for heavier music, but the panasonics are less well rounded than the silmics.

loop_

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Joined: May 20, 2007
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Edit Message Message [#644] posted on: 03-11-2009 06:05 AM CST (US).    View Profile for loop_   Send PM  to loop_   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
hello,

hope this question hasn't been asked. i'm thinking of using Rubycon Black Gate NX for C22,24 and 25, if only because i've had a good experience with them as coupling capacitors for my imod

what is the best specification to get? should i still bother bypassing them?

thanks much

amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#645] posted on: 03-11-2009 06:19 AM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting loop_]

hope this question hasn't been asked. i'm thinking of using Rubycon Black Gate NX for C22,24 and 25, if only because i've had a good experience with them as coupling capacitors for my imod

what is the best specification to get?



The PCB pads are for 2.5mm or 3.5mm pitch, 6.3mm maximum diameter, and 12mm maximum height. Use whatever that fits, minimum voltage rating should be at least 6V.


[Quote]

should i still bother bypassing them?



This is up to you.

[Edited by amb on 03-11-2009 at 06:20 AM.]

loop_

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Edit Message Message [#646] posted on: 03-11-2009 04:26 PM CST (US).    View Profile for loop_   Send PM  to loop_   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
both of these will fit:

NX6.3/22 uf 5x7
NX6.3/47 6.3x7


should I prefer the 22uf one, following the parts list, or is there room for some experimentation? thanks!

UglyJoe

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Joined: Jun. 10, 2007
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Total Posts: 85

Edit Message Message [#647] posted on: 03-11-2009 06:32 PM CST (US).    View Profile for UglyJoe   Send PM  to UglyJoe   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Do you have both in hand? Both will work fine; I'd probably go with the 47uF BGs. They are still readily available, I believe, and you could save the 22uF cap for an application where you need it (not sure what that would be though). Either would work fine.
amb



Headphone Council

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Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
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Edit Message Message [#648] posted on: 03-11-2009 06:47 PM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
There is definitely room for experimentation. Using 47uF caps would allow you to use the γ1 to drive headphones directly with impedance of 150 ohms and up, without appreciable loss of bass.
fordgtlover

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Joined: Feb. 22, 2007
Locale: Canberra, ACT, Australia
Total Posts: 44

Edit Message Message [#649] posted on: 03-11-2009 07:24 PM CST (US).    View Profile for fordgtlover   Send PM  to fordgtlover   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Lat night I removed the output caps and the output bypass caps and replaced them with some 3.3uf polypropylene caps.

After comparing it side by side with the standards build (silmics and Wimas) I can honestly say that I prefer the standard build. I'm going to grab some black gates, mainly to see what all the fuss is about, and see how they go.

As it stands, my opinion is that AMB and MisterX are bang on the money with their selection of output caps.

loop_

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Joined: May 20, 2007
Locale: N/A
Total Posts: 64

Edit Message Message [#650] posted on: 03-11-2009 08:07 PM CST (US).    View Profile for loop_   Send PM  to loop_   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting UglyJoe]

Do you have both in hand? Both will work fine; I'd probably go with the 47uF BGs. They are still readily available, I believe, and you could save the 22uF cap for an application where you need it (not sure what that would be though). Either would work fine.


sadly I don't! the search begins...

thanks for the tips everyone

loop_

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Edit Message Message [#651] posted on: 03-11-2009 08:46 PM CST (US).    View Profile for loop_   Send PM  to loop_   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
also thought I'd mention that you might want to change the Farnell entry for the Texas Instruments SN74AHC1G02DBVR logic NOR gate SOT23-5 from 1287441RL to 1287441. Gave me a bit of a shock when the minimum ordering quantity was a reel of 150!
loop_

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Total Posts: 64

Edit Message Message [#652] posted on: 03-11-2009 08:55 PM CST (US).    View Profile for loop_   Send PM  to loop_   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
and 1097979 for the jumper shunts.

sadly, I could not find any switch from Farnell. Is there anyone from the UK with spares to send? I need 2, and it would be very much appreciated. I can reimburse you via paypal.

amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#653] posted on: 03-12-2009 06:31 AM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Thanks loop_, the γ1 website has been updated.

As for the switch, Farnell does not carry the NKK illuminated switch, but RS Components does.

[Edited by amb on 03-12-2009 at 06:32 AM.]

helzerr

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Joined: Jul. 11, 2003
Locale: Orlando, FL US
Total Posts: 29

Edit Message Message [#654] posted on: 03-14-2009 04:24 PM CST (US).    View Profile for helzerr   Send PM  to helzerr   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
My γ1 has developed a strange problem:

Power by wall-wart: S/PDIF works, but I notice a turn-on "lag" like charging the rail caps is causing a momentary voltage drop.

Power by USB (and power only, USB cord partially inserted so no USB data): Same effect, S/PDIF works but same turn-on "lag".

Power by either method, with USB cable fully inserted: Faint audio output, mostly "digital" noise, indicator rapidly alternates red / green.

USB cable fully inserted, JP2D pins 2 & 3 shorted: USB and S/PDIF input work perfectly.

Sound like a marginal U1D? I have verified the value of the current limit resistor R16D. Does the USB DAC U1U draw much more current when it's receiving data?

[Edited by helzerr on 03-14-2009 at 04:30 PM.]

rille

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Joined: May 22, 2007
Locale: Germany
Total Posts: 83

Edit Message Message [#655] posted on: 03-14-2009 05:39 PM CST (US).    View Profile for rille   Send PM  to rille   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting helzerr]

USB cable fully inserted, JP2D pins 2 & 3 shorted: USB and S/PDIF input work perfectly.

Sound like a marginal U1D?


You should left JP2D open, see the AMB-Site (Instructions): "All positions of JP2D should be left open unless U1D is not installed."

maxyeah

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Joined: Jul. 29, 2008
Locale: N/A
Total Posts: 3

Edit Message Message [#656] posted on: 03-15-2009 12:15 AM CST (US).    View Profile for maxyeah   Send PM  to maxyeah   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
i am trying buffering Vmid as output ground instead of using output coupling caps and get benefit in bass respone
helzerr

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Joined: Jul. 11, 2003
Locale: Orlando, FL US
Total Posts: 29

Edit Message Message [#657] posted on: 03-15-2009 08:45 PM CST (US).    View Profile for helzerr   Send PM  to helzerr   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Yes, I only jumpered JP2D 2 & 3 for troubleshooting to bypass U1D. All other cases were with all positions of JP1D open.
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