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seroxatmad


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Joined: Nov. 13, 2005
Locale: Durham, UK
Total Posts: 45

Edit Message Message [#280] posted on: 01-17-2007 05:16 PM CST (US).    View Profile for seroxatmad   Send PM  to seroxatmad   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
My Boards arrived 8 days after posting...thanks amb...only 8 days to get to the UK so on sorting components out to order. Anyone else from UK with theres?

Years ago when tesing designs and building JLH desings i killed a few headphones so would recommend buying some really cheap ones for inital testing.

I have no scope to test mine when its built but does anyone recommend a cheap PC type osc scope addon i often see advertised?

Other than that a visit to my local college/university may be required.

Regards

john

amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#281] posted on: 01-17-2007 11:24 PM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting seroxatmad]

I have no scope to test mine when its built but does anyone recommend a cheap PC type osc scope addon i often see advertised?



If your aim is to use the scope to look for high frequency oscillations, then the cheap PC scopes (that are based on sound cards) are useless. They don't show much of anything over 20KHz. A good PC scope (with an extra adapter, and with specs good enough for real work) would be just about as expensive as a good standalone scope, except without the handy and easy-to-use knobs.
See this thread:
http://headwize....fnum=3&tid=6579

If you use all the recommended parts and install the 220pF caps at the output stage, and check the DC offset, then there should be little chance of damaging your headphones.

jrossel

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Joined: Oct. 30, 2006
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Total Posts: 62

Edit Message Message [#282] posted on: 01-18-2007 01:08 AM CST (US).    View Profile for jrossel   Send PM  to jrossel   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting Mister X]


[Quoting amb]


Ah, good catch. The BF01x is half as thick as the BF07x. They both have 0.200" pitch, so I should change the recommendation to 581-BF014D0104J.


There seems to be one small problem with that one.... you got to order them in lots of 2500.
How about the Wima MKS2-.1/63/5 instead?


Try the 581-BQ014D0104J they are available in individual quantity and lead free to boot!

JR

awpagan


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Joined: Jan. 6, 2005
Locale: australia
Total Posts: 104

Edit Message Message [#283] posted on: 01-18-2007 02:53 AM CST (US).    View Profile for awpagan   Send PM  to awpagan   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
pcb's arrived today, thanks amb

as for a pc scope check this out
http://www.bitscope.com/

allan

awpagan


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Joined: Jan. 6, 2005
Locale: australia
Total Posts: 104

Edit Message Message [#284] posted on: 01-18-2007 03:06 AM CST (US).    View Profile for awpagan   Send PM  to awpagan   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
As for the snubber cap's
are they really necessary on fast diodes?
and/or are they different value cap?


allan

ps
now i have to go rummaging through my parts boxes to see what i have, or don't have<smile>

I do know, s74's no have.

awpagan


HeadWizer

Joined: Jan. 6, 2005
Locale: australia
Total Posts: 104

Edit Message Message [#285] posted on: 01-18-2007 03:07 AM CST (US).    View Profile for awpagan   Send PM  to awpagan   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting awpagan]

As for the snubber cap's
are they really necessary on fast diodes?
and/or are they different value cap?


allan

ps
now i have to go rummaging through my parts boxes to see what i have, or don't have<smile>

I do know, j74's no have.


amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#286] posted on: 01-18-2007 04:06 AM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting awpagan]

http://www.bitscope.com



That site's DNS isn't resolving for me at the moment, but I've looked at BitScope in the past. It's pretty cool, but for the price, and if you must have only one scope, I'd buy a good used standalone analog scope instead. Analog scopes and digital scopes are each good for different things, and I have both (actually, one analog and two digital ones).

If you search for bitscope and other related terms on www.head-fi.org, you'll find some good discussions on these topics.


[Quote]

As for the snubber cap's
are they really necessary on fast diodes?
and/or are they different value cap?



This is a controvertial issue, and I don't have an easy answer. But, my own habit is to use smaller snubber caps (in the 100pF to 330pF range) on fast recovery diodes such as MUR820, and 0.01uF to 0.1uF on standard rectifiers like 1N400x.

[Edited by amb on 01-18-2007 at 04:08 AM.]

Steinchen



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Locale: Germany
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Edit Message Message [#287] posted on: 01-18-2007 05:46 AM CST (US).    View Profile for Steinchen   Send PM  to Steinchen   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting awpagan]

As for the snubber cap's are they really necessary on fast diodes?
and/or are they different value cap?



there is no need for ultrafast diodes when rectifying snail slow 50 or 60Hz mains, this isn't a high efficiency switching psu. You rather want a diode that doesn't "snap" with reversing voltage (additionaly maybe low reverse leakage current). Thus plain schottky barrier diodes (e.g. 11DQ06...11DQ10, MBR1100, 31DQ06...31DQ09, MBR160...MBR360, 50SQ60...50SQ100, MBR1060) or soft recovery diodes (e.g. HFA08TB60, RHRP860) are preferable.

As for the snubbers: calculating them is rather complicated, you need C + RC snubbers instead of a plain C snubber to eliminate the ringing and you need to know a lot of parameters (inductance of the transformer, junction capacitance of the diodes, ...)
http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf
As long as you simply put a capacitor across each diode I second AMB's recommendation of 220pF ... 10nF for snubbers.

awpagan


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Joined: Jan. 6, 2005
Locale: australia
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Edit Message Message [#288] posted on: 01-18-2007 06:11 AM CST (US).    View Profile for awpagan   Send PM  to awpagan   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Always preferred analogue scopes but just unavailable to me at present<frown>

althought the 100mhz digital on a pc.
with the price of pc's now and the large Lcd's<smile>

havn't been to Head-fi for a while, may look it up.

As for the snubbers on fast diodes
If i use them they are 100-120pf, i am indifferent about them<rolling eyes>


same as bypass on low impedance cap's,?? still undecided!

allan



alfie


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Joined: Jul. 12, 2006
Locale: Italy
Total Posts: 70

Edit Message Message [#289] posted on: 01-18-2007 07:21 AM CST (US).    View Profile for alfie   Send PM  to alfie   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
About the bipolar electrolytics: I cannot find them here. No chance, but buy expansive ones online. So, are they really exchangeable by the 1µF 63V polyesters without any consequences?

What do you people think about a balanced CKIII?

n_maher



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Joined: Dec. 15, 2004
Locale: Portsmouth, NH
Total Posts: 478

Edit Message Message [#290] posted on: 01-18-2007 07:28 AM CST (US).    View Profile for n_maher   Send PM  to n_maher   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
There's actually what looks like a good deal on a 100MHz Tektronix scope (and signal generator too) on Head-Fi right now. Ask the owner and you'll find that it comes with 2 10x probes and an additional 1x probe. Look for a thread by "raduray" in the FS forums. I'd pick the package up if the beta22 hadn't just put my wallet through some serious pain!
jarpatus

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Joined: Aug. 3, 2005
Locale: Kuopio, Finland
Total Posts: 40

Edit Message Message [#291] posted on: 01-18-2007 11:39 AM CST (US).    View Profile for jarpatus   Send PM  to jarpatus   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quote]


jarapatus, it would be good to heatsink the regulators.

Do you have an oscilloscope available? If your output devices are running really hot, the O/P stage might be oscillating. You can only know this by looking at the output.

If they are running moderately hot, then you are probably ok. Does it sound ok?

Also, those 10uNP caps are huge. Most of the ones we had in mind for this should be very small and fit easily on the board.


Thanks for you reply runeight! I added heatsinks to regulators and no problem with them anymore I hope. Tuned trimpots for 14mV and output transistors do still get burning hot - can't put finger on them longer than second (I remember old thumb rule for computer CPU's, if you can't keep finger on CPU for 3 seconds it's too hot)... Well let's see what happens - I have few spare transistors left.

Sound quality seems to be excellent. I do not have my DAC since I took PSU from it but even when connected to my sound card it seems very good.

About hose 10uF bipolar caps... they were only thing available, did not find any small ones <frown> I'll try alternative servo with next board.

Best regards,
Jari

Ferrari



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Joined: Apr. 29, 2006
Locale: Netherlands
Total Posts: 224

Edit Message Message [#292] posted on: 01-18-2007 01:53 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Ferrari   Send PM  to Ferrari   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Jari, Try to find some clip-on heatsinks for the output transistors, it helps a lot. I use these clip-on heatsinks on my CK2III and it was able to adjust the voltages across R23 and R47 at 20mV <cool> (~42,5 mA). The heatsinks does get warm but not burning hot. I can put my fingers on them as long as I want.

seroxatmad


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Joined: Nov. 13, 2005
Locale: Durham, UK
Total Posts: 45

Edit Message Message [#293] posted on: 01-18-2007 04:05 PM CST (US).    View Profile for seroxatmad   Send PM  to seroxatmad   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Hi Ferrari

Its looking good. I notice you have used a 1uF Poly and not a 10uF Bipolar cap for C19,C22 etc. I was after a little bit advise as im about to order my parts.

I think sound quality wise, that is the best option as the 1uF cap is probably better quality than a 10uF bipolar. Its just a pity the 2 resistors have to be of a different make i.e not vishay as all the others are.

Regards

John

[Edited by seroxatmad on 01-18-2007 at 04:07 PM.]

Garlicknots

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Edit Message Message [#294] posted on: 01-18-2007 07:03 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Garlicknots   Send PM  to Garlicknots   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Just as a heads up, if you open up any old computers you have you might find those clip on heat sinks.

I found 6 in a ~1999 era compaq.

YMMV, of course.

Ferrari



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Joined: Apr. 29, 2006
Locale: Netherlands
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Edit Message Message [#295] posted on: 01-19-2007 03:14 AM CST (US).    View Profile for Ferrari   Send PM  to Ferrari   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
These clip-on heatsinks are also available at Conrad, I got mine from there.

Regarding the voltages adjustment across the output resistors R23 and R47, I notice that the voltages across these resistors are very sensitive to the environment (room temperature, the amp testing on table or cased up). The voltage can drift 2-3 mV easily and resulting in a higher output current, things to keep in mind.

[Edited by Ferrari on 01-19-2007 at 10:06 AM.]

amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#296] posted on: 01-19-2007 03:19 AM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting Ferrari]

Regarding the voltages adjustment across the output resistors R23 and R47, I notice that the voltages across these resistors are very sensitive to the environment (room temperature, the amp testing on table or cased up). The voltage can drift 2-3 mV easily and resulting in a higher output current, things to keep in mind.



Yes, and since BJTs have positive tempco, the current will increase as it warms up. So, while you're adjusting the bias, you might want to set it a bit lower than your target, so that when the board is cased up, it will settle closer to where you want it to be. Some quiescent current drift is no concern, as long as the transistors don't get too hot.
awpagan


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Edit Message Message [#297] posted on: 01-19-2007 03:26 AM CST (US).    View Profile for awpagan   Send PM  to awpagan   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
and the pcb should have earth connected
raromachine



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Edit Message Message [#298] posted on: 01-19-2007 05:12 AM CST (US).    View Profile for raromachine   Send PM  to raromachine   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
It's far from complete, so it doesn't really count but I like it <smile>

Also - I found amongst my stash 4x 3300uf Nichicon caps. I know that bigger isn't necessarily better, but it is free-er <smile> Are there likely to be any ill effects using the for C33-C36?


Attachment: C2557.JPG
amb



Headphone Council

Joined: Apr. 1, 2004
Locale: Sunnyvale, CA. USA
Total Posts: 4408

Edit Message Message [#299] posted on: 01-19-2007 05:14 AM CST (US).    View Profile for amb   Send PM  to amb   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

[Quoting raromachine]

Also - I found amongst my stash 4x 3300uf Nichicon caps. I know that bigger isn't necessarily better, but it is free-er <smile> Are there likely to be any ill effects using the for C33-C36?



It's fine as long as it fits properly.
raromachine



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Edit Message Message [#300] posted on: 01-19-2007 05:31 AM CST (US).    View Profile for raromachine   Send PM  to raromachine   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

Attachment: C2558.JPG
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