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 DIY Workshop » The SOHA - A New Hybrid Amplifier   
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Batman



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Edit Message Message [#280] posted on: 12-13-2005 01:31 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Batman   Send PM  to Batman   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
We'll all be waiting for the comparison between your Millett and the SOHA. <big grin>
Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#281] posted on: 12-13-2005 01:45 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
I can't wait to hear the difference, too!

I don't have, nor or planning to, add the diamond buffers into the Millett. It seems to me that if I wanted an amp to sound \"as good as an M3\", I would have built a completely solid state amp to begin with. I like the different sound with the tubes and that seems to be the point of a tube amp to begin with IMO. I guess I just don't get it.

Edit: But I think I will order a couple of boards in case they end up working in other designs.

[Edited by Blooze on 12-13-2005 at 05:21 PM.]

Steve Culton


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Edit Message Message [#282] posted on: 12-13-2005 03:11 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Steve Culton   Send PM  to Steve Culton   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Having heard the Millet a few times, I'll be interested in the impressions as well.
mains_hum



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Edit Message Message [#283] posted on: 12-13-2005 03:17 PM CST (US).    View Profile for mains_hum   Send PM  to mains_hum   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
The original "Stoopid" uses resistors to derive the heater volts.
It works fine, but it's not very efficient.

We realised that we can halve the loss by changing the circuit slightly. However, this didn't address the issue that each valve is unique so the dropper resistors have to be chosen to suit.
Obviously, changing the valve (tube) can mean these resistor values need changing.
Not very friendly, right ?

So the power resistors have been discarded and replaced by a LM337 with heatsink.
This lets us set 12.6V and use dc which also reduces the risk of hum.

Does this idea work ?
Well, I've ordered parts to build one to find out.

Watch this space.

Guitarsenal


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Edit Message Message [#284] posted on: 12-13-2005 04:01 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Guitarsenal   Send PM  to Guitarsenal   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Can't wait to see how you implement that! I was thinking about just slapping on a bridge rectifier and a large cap before the filiment, but that makes it even more ineffecient than it already is, and probably drops the voltage to the filiment too much - requiring re-selection of the dropping resistors.
runeight



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Edit Message Message [#285] posted on: 12-13-2005 04:29 PM CST (US).    View Profile for runeight   Send PM  to runeight   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
OK. Here are schematics with the new heater arrangement. One for the diode ccs and one for the jfet ccs.

Stoopid Reg Heater 1

Stoopid Reg Heater 2

If you look carefully at the schematic you'll see that the heater supply is a full wave rectified supply so it only makes half the full secondary voltage. The full wave diodes are in parallel with the lower half of the primary bridge rectifier. We set them in parallel with the lower half so that when the heaters pull down on the input to the regulators, this will only affect the negative regulator and, hence, won't affect the B+ for the tube.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE ORIENTATION OF THE NEW DIODES AND THE CAPACITORS IN THE HEATER SUPPLY. It is a negative supply.


[Edited by runeight on 12-13-2005 at 04:47 PM.]

Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#286] posted on: 12-13-2005 04:37 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Thanks guys! I'll go through and revise my parts list.
Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#287] posted on: 12-13-2005 08:15 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Ok, check my changes/additions please.

2ea 100V/1A rectifiers instead of 100V/100ma
2ea 1N4002 Diodes
1ea LM337 regulator with heatsink for 2W
1ea 470uf/35V electrolytic
1ea 47uf/16V electrolytic
1ea 1.3k ohm
1ea 11k ohm
2ea 560 ohm plate resistor instead of 1k ohm

runeight



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Edit Message Message [#288] posted on: 12-13-2005 08:25 PM CST (US).    View Profile for runeight   Send PM  to runeight   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
If these are deltas from the original parts list, it looks correct to me. BTW, which CCS version are you using?
Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#289] posted on: 12-13-2005 08:35 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Yes, the only changes I saw were the bridge rectifiers and the plate resistors, everything else was to replace the filament supply.

I haven't decided which CCS I want to use yet and may order both JFETs (cheap) and the J505 (which isn't nearly as expensive as the 1N5297, but looks to be much easier to build and mess up). My only concern using the J505 is its 50V rating.

Batman



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Edit Message Message [#290] posted on: 12-13-2005 08:38 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Batman   Send PM  to Batman   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Hang on, I'm updating the parts list as we speak. You might also consider the original LND150 CCS, they're cheap and can take the voltage. I'm leaving those parts in the parts list too.
Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#291] posted on: 12-13-2005 08:52 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

quote:

[By Batman]
Blooze, don't spend big bucks on parts. One of the nice things about this project is that it uses generic parts and still sounds very good. None of the capacitors in my units cost more than a quarter and some were a dime <cool>


Would there be any advantage you think to using more expensive caps in the signal path? It would be interesting when comparing the Millett to the SOHA if I used the generic parts in the SOHA. My Millett uses regular Nichicon caps except for Cerafines in the output position and Kiwames for all the resistors. I'm just gonna beat myself if a ~$50 amp kicks my ~$200 one! (a lot of that cost is in casing by the way).

runeight



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Edit Message Message [#292] posted on: 12-13-2005 09:23 PM CST (US).    View Profile for runeight   Send PM  to runeight   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Blooze, don't forget a heatsink for the lm337.

I don't think you'll see any benefit to special caps. Just use good metal film caps.

[Edited by runeight on 12-13-2005 at 09:24 PM.]

Batman



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Edit Message Message [#293] posted on: 12-13-2005 09:43 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Batman   Send PM  to Batman   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Here's the updated parts list that includes all three options for the CCS and the new regulated filament supply

1/6/06 We found out that the ST TSH22IN OPAMP produces a DC offset at its outputs and is NOT suitable for this amp. I've removed it from the parts list.

11/11/2006 I've added a PCB tube socket to the parts list for those who may be using the PCB.


If you'd rather have the original spreadsheet with live links to the Mouser and Digkey Catalogs, it's attached to the bottom of this post(C1330.xls)


Blooze, the coupling cap I've specified is a metalized polyproylene so it should sound just fine. I doubt better electrolytic caps than what we've spcified will make much difference. You should have the experience of hearing it as we've built it and then updgrade and see. My money's on your likng it just the way it is.

[Edited by Batman on 01-11-2006 at 03:02 PM.]


Attachment: C1329.gif,C1330.xls
runeight



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Edit Message Message [#294] posted on: 12-14-2005 12:26 AM CST (US).    View Profile for runeight   Send PM  to runeight   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
I'd like to emphasize Batman's comment a few posts back. The LND150 CCS is actually the best CCS for this amplifier because it is indestructible at these low voltages, it is an excellent CCS, and it has a very good PSRR (almost as good as cascoded jfets).

Here is a diagram with all the new stuff and an LND150 mosfet CCS.

Stoopid with Mosfet CCS

Blooze, if you haven't already ordered parts, this is a good option to consider.

Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#295] posted on: 12-14-2005 01:10 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Ordered all the parts from Mouser this morning. Got the JFETs and the LND150 for the CCS. I'm going to try the 2134 opamp replacement they had as well as I've used the 2132 replacements in CMOY's with no issues. So I basically got everything but the tube socket from Mouser.
Batman



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Edit Message Message [#296] posted on: 12-14-2005 02:14 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Batman   Send PM  to Batman   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Are you referring to the TSH22IN opamp from STM? Let us know how it performs and we can add it to the parts list, it costs less than half of what the OPA2134 does.
Blooze



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Edit Message Message [#297] posted on: 12-14-2005 02:37 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Blooze   Send PM  to Blooze   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!

quote:

[By Batman] Are you referring to the TSH22IN opamp from STM? Let us know how it performs and we can add it to the parts list, it costs less than half of what the OPA2134 does.


Yep, that's the one. I hate ordering just one thing from Digi-key and having to pay all the fees. I wish Mouser would carry the OPA chips.

guitarsenal


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Edit Message Message [#298] posted on: 12-14-2005 02:44 PM CST (US).    View Profile for guitarsenal   Send PM  to guitarsenal   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
I picked up a couple LM337s and heatsinks at lunch time. I'm retrofitting the DC heater supply after work tonight.
Batman



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Edit Message Message [#299] posted on: 12-14-2005 02:49 PM CST (US).    View Profile for Batman   Send PM  to Batman   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
Guitarsenal, shall we wait up for your report tonight? <wink>
mains_hum



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Edit Message Message [#300] posted on: 12-14-2005 02:51 PM CST (US).    View Profile for mains_hum   Send PM  to mains_hum   |  Quote Message in Reply  |  Report SPAM!
I think this might be a RoHS compliancy issue. ??
I see many "common" parts being sold really cheap because the supplier wants to get rid of them before restocking with the RoHS version.

RoHS parts cost the same as non RoHS parts except during the changeover period.
During this time (for the component in question) there are some stunning bargains to be had.

Even so, the TSH22IN spec. does look good ... and so cheap too !!

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